Red Hook in Brooklyn is probably best known for IKEA. But Popina, an Italian- Southern American restaurant by the waterfront established by Maialino (Union Square Hospitality Group) alums, chef Chris McDade and general manager James O’ Brien— is another reason to visit this rapidly gentrifying enclave. (If you’re taking the metro, take the F and G line down to the Bergen. The restaurant is an enjoyable 15-minute walk or a quick cab/ Uber ride from there. And just in case you’re coming from Ikea, it’s a 6-minute car ride from there.)
McDade, originally from Georgia (and also has Marta and Cafe Altro Paradiso on his resume) wanted to infuse a sense of simplicity, from the food to the restaurant’s decor. He wanted only a single piece of art in the dining room “that would not only embrace the feeling [but] also demanded attention.” When he was surfing the internet and came across the photograph by Valentina Piccinni of a southern Italian nonna (grandmother) named Franca, he knew that was it. (See anchor photo.)
The menu is straightforward, with only 11 items— three snacks ($5-10), three appetizers ($9-13), three pastas ($18-19) and two mains ($24-26)– all made for sharing. There is likewise a substantive Italian wine (mostly Italian with a few American options; if you decide to BYOB, it’s $30 for the first two, and $50 for the third), a selection of craft beers and a cocktail list that hovers around the classics (gold rush, smoky negroni, daiquiri– all priced at $13).
So how does Italian work with Southern American cuisine you may ask? “Southern and Italian cuisines meld really well and they were both built on the backs of poor people,” explained McDade. “For instance, in the South they cook greens with ham hocks all the time, so we do pappardelle with ham hocks and collared greens. There’s sea island red peas which come from an island off the coast of the Carolinas, here we incorporate them into a squid dish. And our house favorite is the Hot Chicken Milanese. Hot chicken is super famous [here] and in Milan, it’s chicken, veal or pork. We took the Milan Milanese and put the hot chicken in it.”
Popina goes back to basics in that fresh, simple ingredients are taken with tender loving care, and turned into dishes your grandmother would serve– shared plates among family and friends– where you can lounge both indoors and in their outdoor garden courtyard– hello, New York summer nights! There are no pretensions, just good food and good service in a relaxed environment, a place where you can actually EAT AND ENJOY, and not have to dissect or micro-analyze the ingredients on your plate. In a city like New York, where everyone’s in a rush all the time, the change of pace is refreshing.
Popina is open for dinner Wednesday to Saturday from 5:30-10PM, and on Sunday at 5:30 to 9PM. It is located at 127 Columbia Street, Brooklyn, NY 11231, USA. Phone +1 (718) 222-1901. Visit <popinanyc.com>
