Bangkok was the backdrop of a special six-hands dinner by three of Southeast Asia’s most talented chefs today– Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn (Le Du, Thailand; 1* Michelin; No. 14 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018) Richie Lin (Mume, Taiwan; 1* Michelin; No. 18 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018) and Jordy Navarro (Toyo Eatery, Philippines; One to Watch on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018). Although collaboration dinners have become a popular format for events, this one was extra special because it was organized by Chateau Palmer, which is not only one of the world’s most highly regarded wineries, but also a Third Growth, Super Second Bordeaux.
Traditionally, one would expect such an esteemed French wine brand that occupies a 135-acre estate in the Margaux appellation to host lavish European tasting menus, complete with white table cloths, butlers, and the like. But no, Chateau Palmer has decided to focus on ‘Asian fine gastronomy.’ And it’s important to add that the chefs they have decided to work with are notably fresh, forward-thinking, adventurous and ascendant.
“This is all about Ton from Le Du, simply!” shared Damien Grelat, Chateau Palmer export director for Asia-Pacific. “[Chateau Palmer CEO] Thomas [Duroux] and I had a short time off in Bangkok late 2017, which led us to Thailand, the Philippines and Taiwan (quite a coincidence when you know the nationalities of the chefs). Some friends strongly recommended to go to Le Du, and we went there to try, and simply had a memorable experience!” Damien and Ton kept in touch, and when they reunited at the 2018 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards ceremony in Macau, the idea to collaborate unfolded. “I explained to Ton that we were a little tired of these wine dinners happening in aseptic ballrooms of five-star hotels where unexcited western food is often served. And after a few more drinks, we decided to organize these six hands dinners together to break these pre-conceived ideas about food and wine pairings and to prove that we can also be creative in this field.“ Ton then got in touch with Jordy of Toyo Eatery in the Philippines and Richie Lin of Mume in Taiwan. The fact that they were good friends lended itself to a beautiful camaraderie that added to the seamless flow at the event.
Now let’s be honest: pairing wines with Asian food is not always a walk in the park. So how did they do it?
“We were standing up around the same table with the Jordy, Richie and Ton, sharing their dishes and our wines all together,” said Damien. ” I can even quote Jordy when we were having the sea catfish with Palmer 2005, ‘This is like they’re chasing each other,’ we all agreed with that, 100%. This what pairing is about… having aromas matching is a thing, sometimes it is about the balance which naturally comes to us with a brilliant harmony between saltiness or bitterness and the sweetness of our aromas and tannins. In the case of the catfish, the challenge was about the spice. Spicy food is the main challenge when it’s time to pair Asian food and Bordeaux wine… it can get quite spicy sometimes and it is always difficult for the wine to exist in that case… that’s where the pairing between the catfish curry and Palmer 05’ was incredible, the balance came from this little game between textures… is was a win-win situation and Jordy summarized it in a few words.”
The wines were double-decanted for this particular dinner, which, is how Damien suggests older Chateau Palmer vintages be served. “Double decanting for such complex and rich vintages is the minimum to do to give a fair chance to these wines to reveal their personality and depth. All bottles were opened and double decanted two to three hours before service, this is definitely our recommendation in any circumstance. Besides, it was also very important to get all the bottles standing up at least 48 hours prior to our first dinner so that all the sediments can slowly drop.”
This isn’t the first time that Chateau Palmer has had a dinner centering on Asian food. Last year, during the 2018 Asia’s Best Restaurants in Macau, they had a seven-course six hands lunch at Wynn Palace with Asia’s Best Female Chefs: Margarita Fores of Grace Park in the Philippines (2016), Vicky Lau of Tate Dining Room in Hong Kong (2015) and Lanshu Chen of Le Mout in Taiwan (2014) at the Wynn Palace paired with the Vin Blanc de Palmer 2016 and 2015, and Chateau Palmer 2006 and 1999. It is clear that they are going in that direction.
So what are their plans?
“The encounter with Ton, this new friendship and our common desire to think out of the box drove us to these two absolutely spectacular dinners in Bangkok [over two nights]. Most importantly, it is a victory for fine Asian gastronomy AND French wines. At Palmer, we love talented and creative young chefs and challenging projects as much as they permit to enhance the experience for food and wine geeks like us. Now that we have three good friends in Manila, Taipei and Bangkok, the story will continue for sure.”
For more information on Chateau Palmer, visit their website here.
